Testimonials

IN THE WAKE OF ULYSSES

By Jeff Wall

Seventeen years had passed since my last cruise around the Ionian Islands in the Bombay Grab, a 45’ Taiwanese built ketch owned by a great mate named George Middleton, and 30 years, and some, from the halcyon days of youth and three years afloat in the Mediterranean on our fondly remembered iroquios catamaran Pyewacket.

We had purchased Pyewacket from Patrick Wentworth Boyd; our worthy mentor who ran the brokerage arm of the yacht agency Camper and Nicholson in the UK.  Patrick actually owned the vessel and fitter her out.  At his suggestion we three novice sailors left the Isle of Wight and traversed France, firstly through the Brittany Canals from St Malo to Lorient thereby avoiding the difficult passage around the Ushant and then down the Biscay coast entering the Gironde Estuary at Royan.  From there it was an exhilarating sail on the flood tide to Bordeaux and through the many locks of the Canal du Midi to Sete.  If my memory serves me correctly it was there, in this small basin that I recall Alain Colais berthing his huge spidery trimaran single handedly, under sail, in a very stiff breeze.

The Balaerics, Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily and Italy followed and then  across the Tyrreanean Sea to Corfu on the western coast of Greece.  We returned to Gouvia Bay in Corfu at the end of that summer after some months in the Aegean Sea and the islands of the Dodecanese, Cyclades and Saronic Gulf.  Leaving Pyewacket afloat the impercunious crew returned to London to work and to replenish the cruising kitty.  At that time the concrete quays were in place but only a few itinerant yachties and local caiques sheltered there.  Taki’s and George’s tavernas, a baker and small grocery store serviced what was then the isolated village of Kondokali.

So to the present.  My 14-year-old son Joshua and I were to spend eight weeks in France and Spain cycling, following parts and doing some legs of (before pro’s) Le Tour de France.  On the way we intended to stop over in Corfu, stay a few weeks and visit some old acquaintances.  This altered slightly when six friends made up a crew that enabled us to charter a 38’ Lagoon catamaran for two weeks.  The only way to truly take in the Greece islands is by boat.  After three days in Athens six of us drove the 700km to Corfu via the Oracle at Delphi stopping overnight in the small ports of Galaxhidi on the Gulf of Corinth and Mytikas, east of Ithica, on the Ionian Sea.  These beautiful little ports were regular stopovers for Pyewacket.

After a week in an apartment in Nissaki up on the north end of the islands we collected Verenice; loaded, stowed, stored, sorted and reduced the freeboard accordingly!  Diesel is of course available on the quay and two large supermarkets are within walking distance.  The Lagoon, as with most cats this size, has four double cabins, two heads, ample room in the main cabin to entertain eight and a large, well shaded cockpit.

Unlike the Whitsundays, the briefing was just that; very brief.  It entailed 10 minutes of demonstrating how the gadgets worked (engines, bilge pumps, electrics, anchor winch etc.)  The sailing bit we worked out ‘on the run’.  I am not sure whether my supposed familiarity was taken into account but stern tie-ups that are virtually mandatory in the Mediterranean did not warrant a mention.  The only real navigational hazard, the shallow reef east of Paxos on a course for Parga on the mainland was duly noted.  A couple of yachts had some to grief here in the 70s.

A suggested itinerary was provided for the cruise that very much mirrored ours with some variations off the beaten track, that expression having little application in 2008.  We had opted for a Corfu/Corfu round trip but one can start/finish in Corfu or Levkas.  In season both connect daily to Athens but flights from Levkas were not scheduled six months prior to our charter and some of the crew could not afford to miss international connections in planning their vacation.  Of note, most European connections go via Athens.  London however is the hub as the majority of holidays on Corfu are English packages.

The charters are by the week, being Saturday to Saturday.  Adonis, the Athenian Yacht representative allowed us aboard at midday as the vessel has been turned around and prepared the day before on its return from Levkas.  The usual embarkation time is 5pm.  After provisioning we spent the evening in Taki’s taverna, once the focal point of the village but now buried in the melange of bars, businesses and commercial operations that a large working marina like Gouvia gave life to.

The following morning we motored south towards Paxos our most favoured destination during the 70s.  I had spent a good part of one winter here tied up in front of the town square, almost a Gaios local.  After a dawdle down the east side of Corfu the prevailing north-westerly breeze filled in and climbed up to 25kts in the channel between the islands as we sailed into Lakka, a small village on the north tip of Paxos.  Tides in the Mediterranean are negligible, around 15cm in the Ionians and a shallow draft means getting in close without tidal influences.  Anchoring in two metres of water over clean white sand, a quick swim by all, and then ashore for the mandatory afternoon refreshments.  Our charter began on the last day of May, early in the season when it is less crowded and the Greeks are not jaded from six months of solid tourism.  It is not too hot-40° plus is a given at times in August.  We had many days in the 30s, the water temperature was over 20° and warmish nights saw some of the crew sleep up forward on the trampolines.  At this time of year the north-west breeze starts in the west, slowly veers and obtains its maximum velocity in the late afternoon.  Except for one early morning southerly and a few still days, so it was for us.

The decision to go south then meander back proved fruitful as the next day the breeze filled in again and we covered the 45nm to the Levkas canal entrance in six hour, tying up in the newish marina for an overnight stay (more on this later).  The crew wandered around Levkas Town and ate out while I bought a derelict car that two gypsy kids around 10 years of age sold me for three euros.  Their obvious delight with the ‘sting’ left them incomprehensible when, the following morning, I paid them two euros to wash it – payment of course on the take completed!

Palairos on the mainland was our next port of call where myself and Chief Engineer Roach spent the afternoon in the terrace bar on the Stella Artois, while the athletes, Jason and Josh hired kayaks from an English holiday concern and the Miles family swam.  Our serious swimmers knocked out two kilometres a day.  CE Roach and I watched.  Then on to Meganishi and ‘Honeymoon Bay’ – a night of seclusion for Damon and Tracy.  A stunning turquoise bay just big enough to anchor foward and tie up stern to the cypress trees behind.  CE Roach and I, not being betrothed, attempted to count the pine cones on one cypress but lost count after consuming two litres of retsina.

Thursday saw us down the Levkas channel to Ithica and into Porto Kioni for a two day stopover in this delightful little port.  In the 70s most of the houses, although well maintained were deserted, their owners had emigrated to Perth or Melbourne to open cafes or milk bars.  Their descendants have returned to start businesses geared to tourism.  The evening entertainment was provided by the late arrivals jockeying for a slot against the quay in a moderate beam on breeze.  Crossed anchor lines, ‘fend offs’ and raised voices diminished with the dying wind to be replaced by the tink of glass and cutlery that floated across the bay as dusk settled over the tavernas.  In July and August when the Meltemi gets up over 30kts stern to tie-ups can prove extremely hazardous for the uninitiated.

Most of the two days in Kioni were spent swimming or walking the heights of Ithica.  A new arrival in Innforapenny berthed along side.  Peter and Penny Faulkner from Terrigal were half way through a circumnavigation on their Lightwave 45’.  We idled away the afternoons exchanging yarns of cruising in Turkey and of the northwest slog from the Indian Ocean up the Red Sea to Suez.

Week two and on the way to Porto Leone on Kalamos we propped outside the Captain’s cave on the western coast of Meganishi.  The crew snorkelled and dinghied in for an hours play.  We had taken Pyewacket into this cave in settled weather and today the cruise boats poke their noses in for a dry look. 

In 1953 most of the southern lonians suffered an immense amount of damage from a series of earthquakes.  Some towns and villages were rebuilt but others like Porto Leone on Kalamos were deserted.  Here the well water disappeared and the inhabitants moved or emigrated.  Locals from Kalamos Town three miles distant maintain the church.  Life from the past is still evident in the ramshackle dwellings, the antiquated and rusted olive press, its chiselled stone wheel resting on the marbled plinth.  The baker’s stone oven sits alongside the overgrown graves of the cemetery.  We explored the village again in the morning; the only sound that of the bell of the leadgoat tolling high above the steep, marquis covered hillside.  Local fishermen in two caiques had netted off the entire bay and as we slipped under the sterns we wondered what meagre catch they would land.

We spent the next night in Nidri after a brief stop in Mytikas to take on water and do some shopping.   Nidri is opposite Scorpio, the island owned by the long deceased Aristotle Onassis.  Since his death in 1975 the island has become a bird sanctuary.  Once home to a few tavernas and a small fishing village, Nidri is a haven for long and short term yachties.  Two boats I saw in the Whitsundays in 2006 looked like semi-permanent residents.  I couldn’t find their crews.  One of the original tavernas I had found again in 1991.  Then, the new wealthy local fisherman still ran in.  He had a collage of sepia coloured phototgraphs on the taverna wall of the very youthful crews of Mahi Mahi (a sister ship) and Pyewacket exchanging plesantries in the bar with Jacqueline Kennedy and her Greek minders.  The town has grown immensely, now virtually unrecognisable with hundreds of bars and eateries.  I can still however recall our conversation from that time and how he yearned to return to that simple life of fishing and cooking the days catch with his wife in their establishment by night.  We talked of the past and dwelt on nostalgia, both citing the family that constructed wooden caiques up on the southern tip of Corfu in Kavos, no metal fastenings, just a string line and an adze, all wooden dowels.  A holiday resort catering for packaged beer and TV soccer holidays now occupied their land.  An easier living than boat building.

Well into the second week and heading back north the next destination was Prevaza on the mainland just after the Levkas canal exit.  In this bay in 31BC. the combined fleets of Anthony and Cleopatra were defeated by Octavian.  The ensuing land battle and victory saw them flee back to Egypt.  Within a year both were dead and in 27BC. Octavian crowned himself as Augustus, the first emperor of Rome.  On this day we counted 92 sails during our short passage through the canal and across to the mainland.  Prevaza is another clean, well maintained town where we actually tied up alongside on the quay with mostly live aboards for company, thus avoiding the island hot spots.  A good night ashore and in the cockpit was had by all but the skipper and CE Roach were not too ship shape at the 5am deck parade as we set a course for Anti-Paxos.  With six hours of motoring ahead we wanted to arrive before any wind kicked in.  The athletes came to the rescue and by 11am had us anchored in Vrikro Bay in a Caribbean like setting of the finest white sand imaginable, the water as clear as a bell.  It was here Brendon and Jenny had a spirited altercation with an elderly gentleman  who insisted on breast stroking laps of the bay, Mao-tse-Tung like abusing all and sundry who were in his ‘lane’.  International diplomacy forbids the disclosure of his nationality!  By the time of departure 20 yachts had joined us in this tiny bay.  We motored the nautical mile across to Monganishi on the southern tip of Paxos and were entertained that night by local Greek dancers in the taverna.

After breakfast we headed up the short distance to Gaios for an overnight stay in this stunning, horseshoe shaped harbour.  Here, an age ago many an idle day had passed by tied up to the quay on the town square.  Wine was 20 cents a gallon and a coke bottle full of olive oil, hot off the press, a loaf of bread and a grilled sardines were standard fare.  The Italian girls came every August and we still wonder why we ever left.  This now is the most popular destination for yachts in the Ionian.  Arriving mid morning will enhance your chances of a berth.  And so to our last night on the road in Mourtos, again on the mainland, east of the southern tip of Corfu.  We anchored in the bay, a short dinghy ride from town and were soon joined by a 55’ ketch decorated with middle-aged men.  The anchor attendant, completely unclothed, dropped the pick directly under our stern, let go 10m of chain and stood surveying his handy work while the other seven joined him on the foredeck to ogle a the two female crew sunning themselves on the tramps.  Whether they were desperados or just wanted out spot, their objective was achieved.  As with their gender their flag was readily identifiable.  Suffice to say they shared a common border with the breast stroker from Vrikro.  We fled to the town quay and enjoyed the last night as in Prevaza, away from the charter crowds, late into the night with only the last leg to Gouvia in front of us.

Back in Gouvia the following day the debriefing was even briefer.  Adonis, on enquiring how the trip unfolded, uttered howls of amazement as I related to him how the best part was the visit to Kythera (part of the Ionians but south of the Peloponnese some 300nm away).  Two days, two nights sail – terrific trip – a bit of a rough time coming back!  We pointed out a few malfunctions and with that the bond was returned without him even entering the boat, which we left as we found it.  All in all it was a great trip.  Sharing a boat, even with eight good friends can create tension at times, but if you are well organised and have a loose itinerary it will usually work out.  The Miles family relaxed on their much needed holiday while Jason, captain of the Canadian Lifesaving Team and his side kick Josh trained for the upcoming World Surf Life Saving titles being held on the Baltic at Warnemunde in Germany.  CE Roach and myself, as with all good ships officers watched from the bridge.  That was my third group charter.  My son, apart from being stung by wasps, wounded by sea urchins and losing the Galaxhidi Gift to Damon had a terrific time.  Education in life is like a practical illusion – you don’t see it until you experience it.

Finally, without doubt, the Greek Islands provide an enviable location for cruising; benign weather, clear, clean, warm waters and plenty of anchorages offering seclusion or the entertainment of village life and socialising ashore.  The islands although heavily geared to tourism still retain their lustre and the Greeks remain as friendly as ever.  Of course a multihull is the way to go but if you can take a step backwards one can purchase an ex-charter mono over 40’ for considerably less than $A100,000.

Listed below is some useful information if a charter like this appeals to any individuals.

Water and fuel can be purchased on most islands.  Delivered by truck.  Most villages have fresh bread and produce available.  Stock up on stapes in Gouvia.

Levkas Marina is very expensive (75 euros a night) then you pay for a shower that does not work and in turn the office staff are decidedly unhelpful and unfriendly.  They would not provide any yacht with the seven-day weather forecast printout.  Copy it from the notice board!  If you didn’t have an electricity adaptor they were only 70 euros in the marina chandlery!  Avoid it.  Many do.  Fuel is cheaper here.  Tie up to the town quay.

Corfu is the greenest of the Greek Islands and worth the stopover.  We dropped our hire car from Athens at Corfu Airport prior to charter.

If one finishes the charter in Levkas, more time would be available to visit Cephalonia and Zante.

Accreditation require:  NSW Waterways or Queensland Transport boat licence or equivalent.  Sailing experience.

Go early in the season.  Two weeks will give you plenty of time afloat.

The cost of living in Greece as with all countries in the European Union can be up to 30% more than Australia.

Nissaki apartment: falcon@otenet.gr Managed by Judy Mackerel.

www.charterworld.com.au provided the vessel.  Brook and staff are highly recommended.  The boat was well presented and in top shape.  Adonis was more than helpful.  Obviously most Greeks in the tourist trade speak English.